We Are What We Eat: Pakistan
(Part 4 of 7) Photographer Matthieu Paley travels to the Hunza Valley in northern Pakistan where evening meals are a celebration not to be missed, with an assortment of chai and capatis sprinkled with apricot oil.
Upcoming Events at National Geographic Live
The
National Geographic Live series brings thought-provoking presentations by today’s leading explorers, scientists, photographers, and performing artists right to you. Each presentation is filmed in front of a live audience at National Geographic headquarters in Washington, D.C. New clips air every Monday.
Transcript
I went to look at how people survive living in the lower
valleys in the deep valley of the Himalaya. And, so I went to Pakistan, the
area called Hunza in Northern Pakistan, bordering with China to the right and
Afghanistan, the Wakhan Corridor. We are down below where people can actually
grow, have agriculture. Subsistence agriculture, it's very difficult. It's a
harsh environment, you need hard work in order to grow anything. The Burusho,
they are also called Hunzakuts, they are the people of Hunza. And there is
about 80,000 or so of Burusho. They speak their own language which nobody
really knows where it comes from. The only link they found with that language
was in the Basque Country. Imagine the connection, it's just incredible. Nobody
knows.
So, subsistence agriculture. This is Samhina tending to a
potato field below the Altit Fort, over 1,000-year old fort. Down below is the
Hunza River, 1500-feet below. And so this is subsistence agriculture. You find
any land possible to grow. Potato since fairly recently. And the village right behind,
fortified villages often for cold, for protection. It's part of the old Silk
Road. There used to be lots of raids traditionally from caravans. And so they
live in a very strong community atmosphere because of this closeness they have.
And if we go into that house that is up there you know, you walk into this kind
of beautiful scene. So this is life in Hunza indoor. Very simple kitchen . And
then you get offered tea like anywhere there, salted tea. So, this rock, you
see that it's rock salt. So you get-- pour your milk tea and you take the rock
and use it to stir your milk, your tea in there and it will give salt to your
tea. You know, traditionally salt is, has always been fairly easily accessible.
You can find areas with this rock salt. But sugar is not part of the, you know,
traditionally their diet. It's just... it needs to come from far away.
This village you saw is really Hunza, is Central Hunza. I
wanted to go a bit further to really walk away as much as possible from market
food. So we went further north towards the border with China over this lake that
was formed by a huge avalanche in January 2011, I think. And now we have the
30-miles and about a mile deep lake that was formed by this whole mountain that
fell in the valley basically in the Hunza Valley. So, in winter it means crossing
with a boat. The lake receded a little bit in winter and left this carcass of a
boat which was quite surreal in the mountains to see that. If you look down
while you drive after you've left the boat you see the Hunza River and you see
this hanging bridge and often there's people walking on them. They are going
from the village to the pastures. Both in winter and in summer they go to the
pastures.
I don't know if you can see but there's about this gap between
each step on the bridge, with the wind it's often moving. And you get this 60-year
old grandma you know, coming, just cruising through there and you arrive and
are like, “whoa.” Very impressive. So, let's zoom in to this woman. I arrived
and I crossed that bridge and I arrived in the pasture. This woman brought me
apples. This is a Poplar forest that was grown by, you know, ancestors of this
woman here. If you zoom in a bit more, this is what they are doing. They go there,
most in winter, mostly to cut wood. They are cutting this sea buckthorn that
grows very quickly and they have a rotating system within the community. So
it's sustainable and it can regrow. And these grandmas they go around, you
know, these older ladies or younger ladies, whatever they go in the pasture to
cut wood every day. They walk about two hours round-trip to bring back and they
use it they need that wood for cooking and for heating the house. The sea
buckthorn has these berries on it that are easily gathered in winter when the
berry are frozen. Because in summer if you take them, they break. The skin is
too thin. Great heart tonic and lower cholesterol. You know, they eat that all
the time there. The women also bring back hay for the animals, to feed the
cows. These women go out every day and they are just having a blast. They are
laughing all the time, talking all the time they really look forward to these
outings. They are going to walk away from the men, walk away from the village and
gossip all they want. They got this funny guy walking around following them. We
had a blast that day. It was really just a fantastic, you know... Just really
great. It is work but to them it's just... they do that every day.
Soon enough I get invited right and left into houses. Great
atmosphere, very tight family bonds in North Pakistan. This woman is preparing flat
bread, chapati. And they do all kind of different variation of that around
chapati, with this flat bread. It's the main thing. It's grown always locally. On
the upper left it's called Chap churo, layers of flat bread it's a bit like a
pancake with diluted milk and apricot oil. There's buckwheat on the upper right
with mulberry syrup. And then apricot down there. There's places where I went where
there was no real dinner. The act of eating wasn't a ritualistic kind of... experience.
But in North Pakistan, it's really people gather round. There's usually one common
plate, so you reach out together into one plate. It's a very important moment
to get together. Apricot is very important. They make this-- Apparently pasta
came from that part of the world from Western China, not too far away. They
roll out this chapati very thin and then cut it in slices, and make pasta, and
then mix it with dried apricot from the summer. They dry a lot of their fruits
and vegetables so that they can keep all year round. And they mix it together with
the pasta, the apricot and get this quite delicious dish. Rarely do people hunt
there because they are herders as well. But some time ducks that fly over from
Siberia to India get stranded in valleys and then they cook them.
This guy Yahyah Naig on the right has been hunting the whole
day to get this duck. Their tractor is the bull, they use manure for
fertilizer. In every duration, whether it is peace, whether it is trouble, whether
it is earthquake, whether it is something calamity. So, Inshallah the world
will come very peaceful and we shall be one. And because the world is becoming
now a universal village, a global village. Being a teacher I have been teaching
my students to be to be very, very, very cooperative and think about universality.
So that we can live together peacefully. Just a little talk with your average,
you know, farmer. It happens a lot in Pakistan and I love it. But this is part of
my, you know, excitement of being a photographer.